Choose the right rootstock

Cultivated varieties of fruit trees don’t grow on their own roots but are grafted onto ‘rootstocks’ (r0ots from different plants) which determine their eventual size. Dwarfing rootstocks for apples, plums and cherries make it possible to grow free-standing fruit trees in very small gardens.

Nursery catalogues and labels usually indicate the type of rootstock. M27 is very dwarfing, so ideal for containers in a courtyard garden. MM106 is semi-dwarfing: a tree which can be planted in lawns or borders. Meanwhile M25 is similar to the motorway: big and very vigorous. It’s said to be the perfect tree for a swing. Standard sized trees can produce up to 400lbs of fruit, though you will probably need a fruit-picking ladder.

Check pollination requirements

Many fruit trees won’t produce a good crop unless they are fertilised with pollen from a different variety. While some trees are self-fertilizing and if you are only planting one tree, pick one of those – all fruit is better if there is a compatible tree nearby, close enough for bees to carry pollen from one tree to another. Typically, any two varieties that flower at the same time will cross pollinate. Nursery catalogues usually indicate with a letter or number the flowering times so that you choose compatible varieties.

In a very small garden, planting more than one tree can be tricky, which is why space-saving cordon trees or espaliers are ideal (see section on pruning for more detail). Another solution is to grow a so-called family tree which includes several varieties grafted onto one rootstock. They are typically chosen to pollinate each other.

Planting

Fruit trees can be planted at any time between November and March, though the earlier the better. Before planting, soak the root ball for at least 10 minutes in water and then dig a hole that’s twice as wide and deep as the root ball.  Mix in well-rotted manure or peat-free compost and natural fertilizers, such as fish, blood and bone which encourages strong, healthy, root growth. Gently place the tree in the hole, ensuring  that the graft with the rootstock (the swollen area around the base) is at least 10cm (4 in) above the soil line. If a tree needs support, before filling in the hole drive a stake in near the trunk to position it without damaging the roots.  Avoid piling mulch around the trunk as this can lead to rot.

Give the newly planted tree a thorough watering to help settle the soil. Apply a layer of mulch around the base of the tree to conserve moisture and prevent weeds. Keep the tree well-watered in the first year, especially during dry spells, until it gets established.

It’s important each tree has sufficient soil depth and sunshine. There is no need to set aside a separate plot: fruit trees can be pretty as well as productive. In summer, ornamental plants can attract pollinating bees and other beneficial insects, so the fruit benefits from not being isolated. Spacing between trees should be generous to allow for competition-free root and canopy growth. Use wider spacing for more vigorous varieties.

Pruning

Apples, pears and plums can be pruned into free-standing, dwarf pyramid trees which take up relatively little space. Young fruit trees can also be trained as cordons, fans and espaliers growing against walls or fences or on wires between free-standing posts. Cherries, apples, pears and plums can all be grown in this form.

Space-saving cordon fruit trees have one or more stems with many lateral branches, known as spurs, which bear the fruit. Cordons should have their height limited to 1.8-2.4 m (6ft -8ft) and their fruiting laterals pruned during the summer months to retain their columnar shape.

An espalier is a tree that is trained flat against a support with a central vertical stem and several tiers of horizontal branches. Most apple and pear varieties that produce their fruit on spurs rather than the tips of their branches can be trained as espaliers.

Pruning is essential for all fruit trees. It helps to shape the tree, encourages the formation of fruit buds and helps control pests and diseases.

Suggested varieties

There are more than 2,000 varieties of apples and about 100 of those are available from plant nurseries. Don’t limit your orchard to apples. Plum Victoria and Pear Conference are available on dwarfing rootstock, easy to grow and crop reliably. They are ideal for large patio containers so you can have your own fresh fruit even in a small courtyard. Check out quince trees. The odd-looking fruit makes a lovely jelly and pairs beautifully with cheese.

Don’t grow the “banal stuff” you find in supermarkets, suggests Monty Don. Instead try a tasty local variety of apple or fall for a memorable name, such as Bloody Ploughman or Dog’s Snout. And if you have the space for more than one variety, stretch the season out. The earliest apples, such as Discovery, ripen in August whereas others like D’Arcy Spice are best picked in November and stored until after Christmas.

Whether have an orchard or a patio, enjoy the fruits of your labour. The general rule of thumb is that fruit is ripe to pick when it comes off the branch with a gentle twist.

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